Turn shoe



1927' A. P. WILDER ET Al.

TURN SHOE Filed Sept. 2'7,

1923 .2 Shoots-Sheet 1 z w. m m I 1,615,496 Jan. 25, A. P. WILDER ET AL TURN SHOE Filed Sept. 27, 1923 2 Shoots-Sheet 2 Patented Jan. 25, 1927.

UNITED STATES 1,615,496 PATENT OFFICE.

ARTHUR P. WILUmn, 01' ARLINGTON, AND AUGUSTINE P; FAY, BOXBURY MASSACHUSETTS.

roan anon.

Application ma s am. a1, 1923. Serial No. 605,194.

This invention relates to turn shoes. In a turn shoe, the. counter usually terminates at the forward edge of the heel seat so that the upper leather in the shank portion is unsupported and, consequently, is weak and provides but little support for the foot. Due to the weakness at t is point, the upper leather may flexoutwardly or buckle in an unsightly manner as the shoe is flexed in walking. An ob'ect of this invention is to provide a turn sloe with means toprovide support for the upper at the arch-portion of the shoe, whereby to remove the above-enumeria ate-d objections and also'to provide support for the arch of the foot.

A further object is to provide a turn shoe having a shank piece formed with a lateral extension adaptedto bear against the upper to on the-inner side of the shoe at the'shank portion thereof and support it and prevent the formation of wrinkles and fullness whlch ordinarily occurs at this point. a The inner linin of a turn shoe'is usually '85 full and loose an may have wrinkles therein at the shank pbltion of the shoe for the reason that thelinin is on the outside of the shoe before the turmng operation and consequently is longer than the upper. A further 1 object of the invention, consequently, is the provision of means, and,;more'spe c1fically, means associated with the shank piece of the shoe, to remove the fullness of the lining at I t the 'inste of the shoe.

provision of a shank piece for a turn shoe havingimbedded therein a shank stiffener,

as" a stiff yetflexihle metal strip.

A yet further object is generally to im-.

prove the construction, and methods of manufacture, of turn shoes.

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of 'a' turn shoe cut away to illustrate the invention.

shank piece.

Fig. 3 .is a view similarto' Fig. 2 but with the shank piece in position in the shoe.

Fig. 4 is an enlar d' sectionaldetail illustrating the manner in which the inner lining is securedto the shank piece; 7

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the-shank plece.

Fig. 6 is a reverse plan viewer the shank- "piece and illustrating more particularly the shank stiffener therein. i

.place, or at B, also has a tendency toward fullness, or wrinkles for the reason that the shoe is lasted inside out and with the lining the upper at A an 'to be tight and sung in the shoe.

this invention, however, said shank piece is A yetrther object of the invention is the Fig. 2 is a plan'viewof a portion of a turn .46 shoe arranged in readiness to receive the bodying the invention, the liningat the shank portionof the shoe is left free and is Fig. 7 is a reduced cross-section taken along line 7-7 of Fig, 5. As'here shown, the turn shoe embodying the invention may be of more or less usual construction and comprise the sole 10, the upper 11, and the inner lining 12. The upper and inner lining may be sewed to the sole y the stitching 13. The upper of a turn shoe usual] is weak and has a tendency toward fuIlness, or wrinkles, at the inner side of the shoe, in the shank portion thereof and just to the rear" of the ball-portion of the shoe, as indicated at A. The inner lining 12, in about the same outermost; and the lining is consequently longer than the upper.

This invention provides means to support substantially prevent the formation of wrinkles'in the, upper at this point; and also means to arrange the inner nmg 12 in such a manner that the fullness thereof is eliminated and the lining caused In its preferred form, the means by which these results are accomplished consists in an improved shank piece 15. Said shank piece 15 may have the heel-'1 portion 16 and the fore, or ball, portion 17 and of such shape as to fit within-the shoe, in the usual-manner. In accordance with 'rearwardly' toward and terminate at about the heel-portion 16 of the shank piece. In the manufacture of the turn shoe emturned back from the stitching line during the sewing operation so that, while the line of stitching passes through both the lining and upper in front of the ball-portion of the shoe as in Fig. 3, itpasses beneath and free I from the lining atthe shank portion, of the shoe, as is best illustrated in Fig. 2. For this purpose of readily sewing the shoe, the

lining may, be'fornied or provided with 0.

small slit 20 therein, which slit may be located in the lining in the .vicinity of the ball-portion of the shoe and extend from the margin of the linin inwardly a suflicient distance to permit the lining to'be turned back from; the stitching line. If the shoe is sewed around the heel seat, a similar slit, not herein shown, may be provided in the lining adjacent the heel seat; or, if the stitching stops at the heel seat, the rear slit may not be necessary.

After the shoe is sewed, it is turned, and the unattached portion of the lining at the shankortion may be drawn snug and secured 1n position. Preferably, the lining is secured to the shank-piece and, for this purpose, said shank piece is or may be forced or provided with a channel 22 in the upper face thereof in that portion adapted to lie along the inner side of the shoe, and at the base of the lateral extension 18 of the'sha'nk piece.

The free portion of the lining is placed over the lateral extension of the shank piece and the bottom edge of said lining is tucked into said channel 22. The lining is drawn tight againstthe lateral extension 18 and also the upper, and secured in said channel in a suitable manner, as by the use of an ad; hesive preferably the linin is also secured to the body of said la tera extension. The usual lining may then be placed to cover the sole of the shoe and the body of the shank iece.

p The lateral extension .18 of said shank piece, in addition tov functioning to reniove the wrinkles and keep taut the upper in the shank portion of the shoe, is designed to serve as an arch-support for the foot, said extension being disposed in the shoe in a position to engage the arch.

Preferably said lateral extension 18- may be treated in a suitable manner asby a glue or size to render it relatively stifl". The extension may be tempered as by immersing it in water, to render it flexible for therelasting operation of the turn shoe and, when the is rte-lasted and the stifl'enini agent in extension has hecome dry and hard, the extension will he conformed to and retain the shape of the last and he relatively stiff and thereby provide increased support for the shoe upper, and also for the foot.

The reverse face oi the shank-piece may be provided with a channel 25 extended from the heehportion into or adjacentthe forwardor hall-- ortion thereof, and a relatively stiff, yet flexible, strip, preferably of steel, and comprising a shank-stiffener, may be disdposed said channel and therehy emhed- .ded in the shank piece. Rivets 27min, he

passed through said stifi'ener and the shank iece, thereby to connect the two positively. dhe lips 28 of saidghannel are adapted substantially to coverf-vthestifiener. This arrangement has an adi'antage that the lining, and sole,- and, a line of stitching passed through the upper and sole and under and free from the lining at the shank-portion of the shoe, thereby leaving the lining free and un-attached at the shank-portion, said line of stitchingbeing passed throu h the upper and sole, and also through t e lining, beyond the shank-portion.

2. A turn shoe having an upper, an inner lining, and, sole, and a line of stitching passed through the upper and sole and under and free from the lining at the shank-portion of the shoe, thereby leaving the lining free and un-attached at the shank-portion,

said line of stitching being passed-throu hthe upper and sole, and. also throu h t e lining, beyond the shank-portion, an other means securing the free portion of the lining to the shoe.

3. A turn shoe having an upper, inner lining and sole, a shank piece disposed within said shoe, means to attach the upper and a portion of the inner linin to the sole and leave free that portion'of t e inner lining disposed at the shank-portion of the shoe, and other means to attach said free portion of the inner lining to said shank piece only. I

4. A turn shoe having an upper, inner lining and sole, a shank piece disposed within the shoe, a line of stitching passed through the sole, the upper and a. portion of the inner lining and passed beneath that portion of the inner lining/disposed at the shank-portion of the shoe, whereby to leave said portion free, and means to'secure said free portion of the inner lining to the shank piece only.

5. A turn shoe having an ripper, inner lining, and sole, a shank piece dis within the shoe having a channel in its upper face at the shank-portion-of the shoe and means to secure the inner lining to the sole and leave free a portion oi the lining at the shank-portion of the shoe, said free portion of the lining being received and secured in the channel of said shank piece.

6. A turn shoe having an upper, inner linin and a sole, a shank piece disposed within the shoe and having a channel in its upper face at the shank portion of the shoe, anda line of stitching passed thmugh the sole, the upper and a portion of the inner lining and passed heneath that rtion ot' the inner lining disposed at the s ankportion of the shoe whereby to leave said portion free, said free portion of the lining being received and secured in the channel in said shank piece.

A turn shoe having an upper, inner l1n1ng, sole, and shank piece, said shank piece having a lateral extension disposed between the inner lining and upper and extended upward along said upper at the shank ortion of the shoe, said inner lining at said ateral extension having means to secure it to said shank-piece only. I

8. A turn shoe having an upper, inner lining and sole, a shank piece disposed within said shoe and havin a lateral extension disposed between said lining and upper and extended upwardly along said upper at the shank-portlon of the shoe, said shank-piece ut having a channel formed therein at a the 'unction of saidlateral extension-and 'shan piece, and said portion of the inner lining extended over said lateral extension and disposed and secured in said channel.

9. A turn shoe having an upper, inner lining, and sole, a line of stitching passed through said sole, upper and a portion of said inner lining and passed beneath that portion of the inner lining disposed at the shank-portion of the shoe, whereby to leave said portion free, and a shank 5 posed withintheshoe lpdhgv in ht 1v v v extension extended beneath the free portion of said inner lining and upwardly along the upper, said shank piece also having a channel at its 'unction with said latera extension in whic the free portion of said inner lining is received and secured.

10. The method of manufacturing turn .shoes which consists. in lasting the shoe inside out, securm over the heel and shank portions of the s 0e a shank piece having a temporarily-tempered lateral-extension, turning the shoe and relasting it and allow ing said tempered lateral-extension to set and harden, whereby to be conformed to and retain the shape of the last.

. In testimony whereof, we have signed our names to this specification.

- ARTHUR P. WILDER. v, AUGUSTINE P. FAY.. 

